Hook

I begin this installment as a cautionary tail to restauranteurs. Hook was on our list to experience. We made our reservation and we asked our closest friends to join us for drinks and dinner on a steamy summer night in Georgetown. Anticipation was high. We appreciated Hook's take on sustainable seafood done in an interesting way. The restaurant although well respected made a recent change in its lineup with the departure of Barton Seaver. Luckily the gifted Josh Wigham was still at the helm. Wigham's pedigree is nothing to scoff at: Cafe Atlantico, Zatinya and Minibar to just call out highlights. He is an obvious favorite of maestro Andres and thats good enough for me. We arrived promptly at 8:45. The lad posing as Matre'D was dismissive at best. He asked us to "take a load off near the bar." He felt it necessary to excercise what little power he had in this world and make us wait. We had just tasted wines at Medicino Grill (looks for a future installment) and we were ready to sit down. After 30 minutes and two attempts to stir the stubborn lad at the desk we still had no table. Finally the general manager stepped in. What a relief in this world of excuses to hear "we're sorry, our fault." The GM led us to our table and discretely instructed Neshko, his ace in the hole to make our evening superlative. This was a lesson the GM had learned at his former post at the Inn at Little Washington. Neshko, who loves his equally talented wife, Cat (server at Zengo, featured in this blog elsewhere) applied salve to our wounds and allowed us to enjoy a truly brilliant meal. The flourish of Neshko and his Serbian soul put us at ease. We started with appetizers of trout roe done three ways (YUMMY) and beet salad, excellent. The fish that followed was even better. The winner of the evening was the sable, ordered by my wife. The normally, oily, ethnically challenged sable, was beautifully prepared. The other entrees were also good but the sable was a stand out. But before the meal concluded we were honored with two unexpected but welcomed table appearances. The first was the Matre'D, with his tail between is legs escorted by the GM. He apologized profusely and it was over. The second was Chef Wigham. He was humble, explained his dishes and promptly returned to the kitchen. In summary: Hook is a fabulous restaurant and we will go back. The food, decor and atmosphere smell of success, but the summer help is lacking. Most of all hats off to Neshko for recovering and otherwise horrible dining experience.

Hook restaurant
3241 M Street
Washington, DC

5 stars food
www.hookdc.com